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The Cassidy House

Painting Preparation 2 - The Process

Intro,   Clippings,   Dining room,   Doors 1,   Exterior,   Ext  Doors,   Front Doors ,   History,   Interior,    Painting 1,   Painting 2,   Peek In,    Pocket Doors Porch,   RoofStained Glass,  Staircase  

Save on Heat Cost
Low Watt Flat Panel Space Heater, Paintable

11/24/2002

This summer we have been preparing the wood on the front of the house (1st and 2nd floors only) for painting, but it is a slow 9-step process as follows:

  1. Scrape off paint

  2. Repair or replace broken clapboards

  3. Countersink rusty nails and fill holes to keep new paint from peeling over nail holes

  4. Treat clapboard and trim with bleach mixture (1 part bleach to 4 parts water) to kill mold, if necessary

  5. Sand

  6. Treat wood with linseed oil and turpentine mixture to put moisture back in the wood.

  7. Caulk around windows with paintable caulk

  8. Prime – Because the wood has not been painted for many years, it may be necessary to put on two coats of oil based primer. We will use Pittsburgh Paint's Sun-Proof.

  9. Paint – 2 coats of Pittsburgh Paint's top quality Manor Hall latex paint. Pittsburgh Paints are available locally at A. P. Savage Supply Company, an old fashioned personal service hardware store, online at www.EachesHardware.com . We were going to use oil paint, until Tucker Braddock from A. P. Savage, arranged for Pittsburgh Paint to come out and analyze our paint situation. Evidently, all current paint research is focused on latex paint, making latex a much better product.

Scraping

Some areas have loose paint, some have no paint, and others have firmly adhered paint.  The best way to remove the paint is with a good claw type scraper and lots of elbow grease.

   

1st floor siding, protected from sun and rain, can be saved. 
Siding on upper floors will probably have to be replaced.

<---------

First the wood is stripped clean of paint and then sanded. Note that the stripped siding almost looks new. 

Primed wall

   
Scraping is VERY labor intensive. There is no fast and easy way. We've tried just about every method available , including a power washer ( which did little good and put grooves in the wood). We ended up using claw type hand scrapers for flat areas, and rounded ones for curved areas. 

The ends next to the window trim and the curved area at the bottom of each piece are the hardest to scrape.   The rounded area requires a special rounded scraper, or the use of a drill with a round steel paint stripper attachment. Neither method is fast.

The old nails were not galvanized and have bled through leaving black stains. Nails that are not covered will heat up faster than the paint and cause the new paint to blister.  So, after the scraping is finished, all nails have to be countersunk, the holes filled, and sanded. 

Linseed Oil

Once the surface is smooth and dust removed, a coat of linseed oil diluted with mineral spirits is applied, and left to dry for several days.  This stops the old wood from sucking the oil out of the new oil primer.  The area behind the chair has been oiled while the area around the corner has not.  Notice the difference in the wood’s color.

Once the oil dries the wood can be primed.  The above area was primed with a brush.  We would have used the spray gun, but the last person to use it did not clean it properly and the gun was clogged.

   

Porch Posts

The porch needs 6 new 11 foot posts. The cost to recreate one post is $600, which is price prohibitive.  Instead, we will probably repair the old ones, piece together 2 from parts, and buy 4 new, similar mass made posts.  The new posts would be grouped together at the main entrance.  These will cost about $150 each plus shipping.

The old posts were made in two parts.  The smaller piece consists of the rectangular area at the top, and a the upper ball. The bottom portion is the round area, the lower ball and the lower rectangle.  A large mortised joint holds the two pieces together.  The bottom square area is badly damaged.  One option for reconstructing the posts involves dividing the posts into three parts, two square ends and the center section.  The bottom square end could be easily recreated and mortised into the round center portion. 

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